Jul 2, 2012

2012 Takes the Field! Day One


Carrie

DISCLAIMER: I will not be riding any more motorcycles in Medellin. And I will not be working (and have not worked) in any areas associated with current gang violence - thanks to my directors and Medellin Solidaria. This post is meant to represent my frustrations, excitement, and confusion about my first day of interviews…

Last night, my greatest fear was that a house would collapse on me during an interview. This morning, that fear quickly subsided and was replaced with two new ones - gangs in the rural slums and motorcycles.

First, let me explain a little bit about how I’m actually interviewing families. I follow a “cogestora” from Medellin Solidaria (kind of like an NGO) on her normal route. Medellin Solidaria aims to better the lives of all citizens and inform displaced people of their legal rights. After the “cogestora” from Medellin Solidaria gives advice, I ask the family if they would like to be interviewed. If they say yes, they fill out a consent form. And voila! I start my interview!
Our Duke Engage group was assigned to interview families in four different areas of Medellin (so two of us in each general part). Cesar and I are partners, so we interview people in roughly the same area. When they told me my partner was the only person who had been to Medellin before, whose family is from Medellin, and who is completely fluent in Spanish, I knew I would be working in the middle of nowhere. Cesar and I were assigned to the “corregimientos” (rural townships).
This morning, Cesar and I arrived at the metro station in San Javier (where Medellin Solidaria has one of its offices). We were greeted by different “cogestores” than whom we had been assigned. The reason? Gang fighting in La Loma, a place near San Javier where I was supposed to conduct my interviews. In the past, these “corregimientos” were some of the most dangerous areas in the world. Over the past 20 years, the gang violence has died down significantly, as community members have begun inspiring work to improve their lives. However, this work has been so inspiring that I solely focused on the good and forgot about how bad it could really be. Living in Carlos E. has been so wonderful that I pushed aside the notion that Colombia is still extremely dangerous in certain parts. Carlos E., el Poblado, and other parts of Medellin make me feel fairly safe and at home. But, today, I realized that, although Medellin has made significant progress, the rural slums are still lurking with hostility and aggression. Due to the gang conflicts, I was immediately reassigned to work in San Cristobal instead (a much safer area).

Medellin Solidaria said that they plan on reevaluating La Loma for next week, but if it’s too dangerous to go into now, I don’t think that three days are going to change much. (AKA I have no desire to go into a place where gang wars were a problem only the week before).  So that started fear number one: gangs. The program directors are seriously discussing relocating Cesar and me to an entirely different region in Medellin. This is because violence exists in some of the rural slums near my work, not because I have been actually working in the gang-infested war zones themselves. Regardless, I am grateful that Medellin Solidaria and my program directors are looking out for my safety.
So, the “cogestora” I was assigned to for the day and I went to San Cristobal and Pajarito instead. How did we get there? On a motorcycle, of course! Terrified doesn’t even begin to describe how scared I was. After my mom and dad telling me horror stories of motorcycle accidents my entire life, I strapped on my helmet and hopped on the “bike”. I’ve driven scooters before and loved it, but it terrifies me to be a passenger. Not only are the people in Medellin terrible drivers, but there are also potholes EVERYWHERE. Did I mention yet that two of the three families I visited today also informed me that their husband/child/friend was recently in a bad motorcycle accident? Luckily, my “cogestora” drove well, and I survived to write this post. My “cogestora” for next week (maybe - depends if I change places or not) drives a scooter. She’s super nice and insists that we can take the bus instead so that I feel more comfortable (THANK GOD!) Anyway, Tam and Jota have forbid me from riding on a motorcycle/scooter again… so that wouldn’t have happened anyhow. Exploring Medellin on a “bike” was an experience, and it explains fear number two: motorcycles.

After a 40 minute motorcycle ride, we were in the “corregimientos”. These are the rural areas up in the mountains of Medellin. The view was unbelievably beautiful! People in the US would kill for the real estate in these areas. But the conditions people were living in were so bad. I interviewed two families, both of which tried to discuss former gang violence and hopes for their families. Although the first interview had terrible audio and the second bad lighting, I feel like the main problem was that families were holding back how they truly felt about Medellin. I think that the presence of the “cogestora” (and her constant urging for positive anecdotes) compelled the interviewees to avoid sensitive issues and negative stories about their community. Usually, the “cogestores” have relationships with the families, which developed over years of trust and communication. The families that we visited, however, had only met my “cogestora” once before and had gone through at least four different “cogestores” during their program. I feel like the families did not feel comfortable telling the truth, and I don’t really know how to change that. Or maybe I was part of the problem? This has made me incredibly frustrated. But, I guess I had not expected much for my first day in the field anyways. Today proved to be rewarding in helping me learn what I do wrong with technology and understand that any story a person is willing to tell is a story that should be captured. I’m excited to learn more in my future motorcycle-free, gang-free interviews and adventures in Medellin! 


Cesar
My first day in the field went better than expected. I was initially nervous, but my cogestora’s young age and upbeat attitude put me at ease. My biggest fear was that the interviewees would want to tell me their story, but my incompetence as an interviewer would obscure their message. In the first house we visited, I interviewed a woman, Mary, who had left her home due to spousal abuse. She now lived in her parents’ half-built home with her two daughters. My cogestora recommended several government programs that would allow Mary to receive insurance for herself and her two daughters and that would allow Mary to finish building her parents’ home. Hearing Mary’s struggles saddened me and I was at a loss for words. I became painfully aware of my own privilege and I knew that there was nothing I could say to make her feel better. All I could do was listen. Next, my cogestora and I went to a local nature park to interview Jorge, a concession stand owner. This interview was about the positive values of hard work, honesty, and humility. Jorge told me about his business, his family, and his hopes for the future. Jorge claimed to have the best chorizos in el Parque Arvi, and he insisted that I should one day return with my DukeEngage companions. Oh, and he wasn’t lying about the chorizos, they were delicious.


David
Watching my cogestora conduct her check-ins with love and compassion was an amazing experience as was hearing those family’s stories. It must be extremely rewarding to see the families you work with improve, as were most of the families on the route, and frustrating when they don’t. One family in particular stands out. Out of curiosity, I asked one mom, who had been in the program for many months, how her experience had been with Medellin Solidaria. Much to my surprise, she told me that it had been horrible because she wasn’t receiving the help she needed.

What confused me about this was I had just watched my cogestora advise her to begin studying again among other things but the mother refused to work to improve her position. What further complicates the situation is the woman’s son is unable to walk and is forced to navigate in his wheel chair. The lack of paved surfaces beyond his front porch means he is restricted to the house. His neighborhood is not as wheelchair accessible as others- the steps leading to and from the plot of land on which his home sits on are carved out of the earth. He wants to get an education but lacks the access to do so. Both Carmen and the woman understand that the only way this woman’s son will get the education that they both want him to receive is by moving to a place where the son can move about. The method of doing so is where they diverge. The woman wants to hire a lawyer and sue those who she says are responsible for her son’s disability. Carmen, on the other hand, wants the woman to study so she can get a job which would enable them to move, so that the son could receive an education.

If her son were done wrong then yes, he deserves justice and economic compensation may be allotted with this justice. Even so, this course of action seems unsustainable as a means to improving their quality of life because they may be awarded a lump sum that would run out eventually. Once that money runs out, they very well may end up back where they started- living in a house that her son can’t leave. Carmen’s recommendations make sense. The woman would be self-sufficient and able to provide a better standard of living for her children and the chance to move up the socio-economic ladder, all regardless of the court decision.

It’s possible that I missed a critical part of the story, so I asked Carmen about it later. She said that this woman has made no effort to improve her life or her children’s lives. The woman is waiting for Medellin Solidaria to fix her life and for the courts to give her money that she doesn’t have to work for. Carmen’s evaluation seemed accurate and she would know, having been working with the family for an extended period of time.

Carmen’s evaluation may be accurate but it’s also possible that this woman wasn’t taking advantage of the opportunities because her hands were full caring for her disabled son and the other children in the home. If I’ve learned anything from my first day in the field it’s that there are many sides to a story and the time I have in these homes isn’t enough to figure it all out.

Despite the limitations, I like what I’ve seen of my cogestora’s and Medellin Solidaria’s work. They don’t go about social development the way many people do. It’s tempting to do everything for the target population but this course of action doesn’t actually solve the problems in these communities. I hope that my first impression of this social development effort is correct and that they are actually helping their target communities help themselves.



Katie
On my first day working in Medellín I interviewed four families. I traveled with a cogestora, the Colombian equivalent of a social worker, around España, which is the neighborhood Time magazine labeled the most dangerous in the world in 1989. The first house my cogestora and I visited exemplified abject poverty. It was filthy, the smell reaching me even before I entered the house and when my cogestora and I knocked, a little boy answered. He said his mom wasn’t home and he was with his two younger brothers. We waited a little while and Karina, the mother of the three boys, came to meet us. I asked her a few questions but she was reticent to answer so I sat while my cogestora talked with her. As I was waiting, her oldest son Wilfred, who is 10, asked to see how my camera worked. I showed him and then he took me around the house, showing me the bed he shared with his mom and two brothers, the scar on his arm, and a picture of his father. His little brother Harrison took my hand and led me outside to show me his kite, a retrofitted cardboard box of beer with string attached. He attempted to fly the kite, running up and down the steep hill on which they lived, throwing the kite into the air and then catching it when it fell, grinning at me each time it stayed aloft. Wilfred and I sat down on the steps to watch and he turned to me and asked if I would like a glass of juice. I marveled that a boy who had so little offered me something of such great value to him. I could not accept the juice simply because he needed it so much more than I did. Being offered food from a boy who has experienced starvation left me in awe of his innate generosity, and feeling completely inadequate, unable to help him the way that I want to.   



Julie
Truth: I’m pretty good with directions.
Dare: Figure out how to meet your cogestora at 8am, having only ever taken the metro one stop.
Truth: After 20 minutes on the metro and changing trains twice, somehow I led four of us to end up where we started.

Truth: I like hiking
Dare: Stand in the center of Medellin and look up. All the way up. Now walk there.
Truth: I should have brought an inhaler.

Truth: I love mango
Dare: Eat a mango fresh off of a tree, without peeling it or cutting it.
Truth: I walked around with bits of orange mango between each of my teeth the entire afternoon. (note to self: bring floss next time)

Truth: I practiced with each of my cameras and all of my technology.  
Dare: Do it in the field. Alone.
Truth: I forgot to turn on my iPod. Then my iPod died. The fluffy part of the microphone fell off. Every single time (I think it actually might still be in someone’s shirt).

Truth: I really feel like my Spanish is improving.
Dare: Try to explain this project to someone who has no idea who you are or why you are in her home. Then be comfortable and comforting enough to be able to capture their painful stories on camera, while simultaneously taking this difficult information in yourself.
Truth: My heart was wrenching while my head was spinning. I didn’t know how much I could take.

Another truth: I still don’t.  




Albert
Our first day in the field was nothing that I could have totally prepared for.

I walked out of each house unable to speak. Helena kept asking me what I thought, and I could not mutter anything coherent. I saw families without much food, without stoves, and without many of the basic necessities that I take for granted. These families still fed me, gave me gifts (see the picture below), and were excited to share their stories with me. They are not ashamed of where they stand economically because they are also motivated to change their situation. Many of the families had members that were studying to obtain new skills. They are happy people and exhibit a kindness that is indescribable.

When meeting as a group to go over the steps to meeting a family, everything seemed simple. I knew there would be awkward interactions since I’m not fluent in Spanish. My cogestora, Helena, really helped me out when I struggled with the language. She took me to houses that she knew very well. Every house is different and this made finding the best camera position very difficult, especially given the sizes of the houses. I faced trouble with one interview’s audio and one interview’s lighting, but I think that my last interview has the best footage. The last interview was emotionally charged, but my worst fear came true. This woman began to cry during our interview. I felt the emotion and I froze up, but I could not understand why she was crying. On camera, you can hear me stuttering without a response. Thankfully my cogestora whispered in my ear a follow up question to ask: “Porque lloras?” This was an amazing moment, therapeutic almost, because this impromptu question required her to think about the root of her emotions. I tried my best to show my sensitivity, but I left feeling that I could have done better.



Alexa
On Tuesday morning I left my newfound home in Medellín with my camera and notes to document the story of a woman I had not yet met and whose story I didn’t know. Her name was Jobeida. Her story took me off guard, and as she cried, I began to sympathize with something none of my experiences had prepared me for. She told me the history of Colombia through her personal story, one in which her house was burned down in the middle of the night by drug leaders who labeled her as a traitor for having given water and food to a competing group. Her husband disappeared that night, and was presumably killed; she has not heard anything of him in over ten years. She ran away in the middle of the night with her children and her daughter of nine years was kidnapped. Four months later, she was returned, but it was an experience that her daughter has still not entirely recovered from. She continued and told me the hard transition of making a home for herself in Medellín, and smiled with pride in showing me the beautiful home she lives and feels secure in today. As I returned to my apartment, 40 minutes away on a metro and in a much safer neighborhood, I called my parents to tell them that the interview had gonegreat.

Later that afternoon, I questioned my motives for calling the dialogue we had had great. I had unexpectedly come across an incredible story of Colombia’s history and a personal account that moved me but what were my motives for telling her story? As filmmakers, we want to tell an exciting story, one that will catch people’s interest and tell a story. How was I benefiting her by making this film? And then I fell down on the sidewalk. It took falling down to realize the weight of insecurity that I have been carrying. Colombia is notoriously known as a dangerous country, the last news that the United States has received in headlines concerning Medellín was twenty years ago when the city was plagued with drug wars. In the weeks preceding my departure, my parents made sure I would always be on my guard…

It is exhausting.

We are not allowed to leave for anywhere without someone within our group, and most times we travel with the eight of us. The precaution leaves room for anxiety about venturing on my own; something I have never felt. I have traveled on my own and have developed a way of becoming familiar with new places, and that is by exploring. What I have become familiar with in Medellín has taken hold of my heart, my feelings, I love it. However, the way of life here is very different from what I am used to and it is taking time to become accustomed to it. I don’t feel comfortable, and I don’t know how to change that. I feel comfortable in my house, in my new GREAT circle of friends, with my wonderful and warm host mother, but alas, the threat of Medellín’s notorious history still makes me insecure. As I fell on the cement, I felt myself let go. My breath fell out and my knees slid across the concrete hard. My palms cracked with pain as they reached out and met the road. Walking away, my thoughts were not focused on the pain but on the constant guard that I always have up here. Independence is something I’ve always been grateful for but have taken for granted. Hearing these stories has forced me to think about my own privilege of independence but also question it here, and I am curious how I will convey this incredible development of Medellín over the past ten years in my documentary while also portraying the continual threat that I still feel is present.



Dani
When I walk around town, I have accepted that I am una extranjera, una gringa. I expect it. The stares are not new, the attention leaves no lasting impression, but I want the person behind my camera lens to experience more than a living, breathing, personification of a 'language barrier.' When I tape their story, I want the footage to respect and empower el entrevistado/a by sharing the pain and joy of their own personal narrative, instead of merely capturing it on minutes of film.

On my first day accompanying and conducting interviews with my cogestora, I didn't know quite what to expect. I remembered her from our meet and greet in Moravía. She was sweet, patient, and encouraging, but I was extremely nervous. How would the families be? Would they be receptive to me? Would they feel comfortable sharing intimate and personal details of their life? And WOULD my technology function? When I get nervous, I sort of lose all common sense and even forget to put the mini memory card disk into the actual adapter. Yes, I actually spent an hour trying to figure out why my memory card wouldn't "format." Suffice to say, doing interviews in a foreign language in a foreign country with no knowledge of the history of Picacho (the neighborhood) is daunting to say the least.

I finally started my first interview and it seemed like sadly, all my fears came true. The woman was very timid, shy, and reserved. Her voice was so soft it was nearly a whisper even with the microphone. The only sitting area placed me too far from her, she could not understand my Spanish and so she directed her gaze and conversed with the cogestora. After snapping their official portrait, I felt defeated, but instead thought-- challenge accepted.
We walked outside and ambled through Comuna Seis until we saw a familiar face. FARCONELY! The community leader from "El Triunfo" whose video we had analyzed and studied to prepare for the field. So basically, as our group previously determined, she's a Duke Engage Colombia celebrity, but actually. My cogestora's face lit up when she saw her and made me take a picture with her. Farconely wasn't really into the whole idea of snapping a picture with some random American girl she'd never seen before that creepily knew all about her life, but reluctantly fixed her hair and "posed" (she didn't smile, but I did..big steps). Seeing Farconely walking around the neighborhood reminded me that our videos are not just an archive of interviews, but rather a living history, a clash of the past, present, and future.

Watch the “El Triunfo” video with Farconely here: http://medellinmihogar.blogspot.com/2011/02/15-el-triunfo.html

After that awesome, yet entirely uncomfortable interaction, we went to a couple more houses where I couldn't interview before venturing on to the location of my second interview. We walked in and the young woman named Stefania welcomed us into her home with open arms. It was dark and there was a soft breeze inside, offering a refreshing relief from the strong Colombian sun. Her hair and appearance was impeccably styled and she appeared to be in her early twenties. Once we climbed up the stairs, she began to brush and braid her six year old daughter's hair and we just started to talk with no mention of an interview or even Medellín Solidaría's work. After thirty minutes of meet, greet, and light conversation about how "ugly" she thought she was before starting to use a "plancha," we started the interview. Unlike the first one, I explained our work and the types of questions I would be asking in great detail before I began recording. I told her that this was her story, her interview and not mine. Anything she wanted to tell me was what I would want to hear. The interview was animated and Stefania told me all about her family, her childhood, her hopes and dreams for the future, and her gratitude to Medellín Solidaría for providing her with an assortment of services and guided counsel. The second interview was on the opposite side of the spectrum compared to my disastrous first attempt, but I'm still torn over my inability to respond to her tears and sudden stream of emotions when she mentioned the role of her father in her life. It wasn't that I didn't understand-- I did. And it wasn't because I didn't know how to respond, but maybe I actually didn't know in retrospect. I felt the mix of sadness and deep admiration she expressed for her father, but I should have asked her more about their relationship and let her explore its impact on her life instead of abruptly moving on to another, but in my mind similar question. My cogestora was beyond helpful during this emotionally demanding first day and even gently suggested that next time I focus less on my pre-scripted questions and more on engaging with the interviewee, before offering to bring me back to Picacho to spend more time with Stefania and her children in a more natural and less structured environment. But I still left feeling nothing short of defeated…

Watching the interview later that day after I returned back to Carlos E., I realized it wasn't as horrible and rude as it felt in that moment. I'm my own worst critic. I'm a perfectionist and criticizing myself comes more naturally, than just being 'okay' with something that I have worked diligently to make or produce. Coming to grips with the fact that my first day doesn't necessarily affect or determine what will eventually become my final product at the end of this program is a really big step for me. But this documentary project is all about the process and embracing the uncomfortable and at times, discouraging situations. We didn't come to Duke Engage Colombia as video production professionals with fluent Spanish skills on our resumes, but instead, we come here as motivated and impressionable college students who can never say no to a challenge. Challenge accepted.




Jun 25, 2012

First Impressions-- 2012

Katie
I have grown up hearing about the dangers of Colombia, the ever-present crime and drug wars.  When I told my family I would be attending Duke Engage in Colombia my aunt posted an article about continued FARQ violence on my Facebook wall and my mom offered to buy me kidnap insurance.

When I arrived in Medellín however, I saw no evidence of this crime, no reason for my family’s extreme worry.  All I saw were mountains in every direction I looked, candy colored houses, and little kids playing soccer in the street. My home-stay mom welcomed me into her house and provided me with internet, a hot shower, and all the rice cakes I could ever possibly want (she is on a diet and always willing to share).  While I recognized how different Colombia was than my home in America, I did not see the conspicuous violence and poverty that I had expected. 

On our first tour of the city we visited the Biblioteca de España, a new library that was written about in the New York Times for it’s Architectural novelty and positive social impact.  The view from the library was breathtaking and people swarmed it reading and using the computers while kids played in its indoor playground.  As we left the building, we walked over a plaza named “the hole.”  My group leader then told us that was the place where people used to dump dead bodies. 

On our second day here we walked partway up one of the mountain and climbed the rest of the way on a 1,260 foot escalator.  The view from here was astounding.  We were so high we could literally reach up and touch the clouds.  It was the most beautiful place I had ever been.  However, as my friend and I lagged behind our group to take pictures, our tour guide turned and told us to put the cameras away immediately and stay closer to our group.  Apparently, we were in one of the more dangerous neighborhoods where gangs were present and active.

I am constantly aware of Medellin’s past and of the precautions I must take, but my first week in Medellín has shown me a vibrant and cosmopolitan city with generous, welcoming people and views that take my breath away. Even in the neighborhood that Time magazine classified as the most dangerous in the world in 1989, people smile at me and kids laugh and play in the streets.  And regardless of all else, the view from the mountaintop makes Medellín one of my favorite places.


David
Medellin is very different from the places I call home, Cheverly and Washington D.C., which has made my time here much more interesting. In both of my homes it’s very rare to see people spending their leisure time outside of the house in large groups. This is not the case in our neighborhood here in Medellin- almost every night of the week people flood the community plaza to talk with friends and family.


I think that how often the entire neighborhood comes out to spend time together says a lot about the community. In Cheverly and D.C. this doesn’t happen too often, people leave their homes to celebrate the founding of the town or Osama Bin Laden’s death. We need a special occasion to want to hang out with our fellow neighbors. In Medellin, it seems people go out every night just to enjoy each other’s company. I didn’t realize it until I laid eyes on the packed square that this is exactly what Cheverly and, most likely, the greater majority of American cities are missing. Which leads me to ask ‘would it be possible to create this type of community at home?’ and ‘if yes then how?’ I definitely don’t have the answers but knowing what to ask is a step in the right direction. 


Even though I’ve loved the city I’m frustrated that it’s dangerous. In Washington I can walk just about anywhere alone without having to worry about being robbed/whatever. There are dangerous places but I feel safe practically everywhere while here I’m only allowed to feel safe in a 2-3 block radius. I like what I’ve seen of the city but it’s difficult to fully appreciate it when you’re receiving conflicting messages- on one hand the city and people are great and on the other you aren’t safe and some people may want to steal your possessions.




Daní (Danielle)
Medellín es chévere. Seriously, muy chévere. The city is beautiful, stunning, and different from anything I have ever experienced. Growing up in quiet suburbia, I'm energized, but also overwhelmed by the excitement of my surroundings. I fall asleep to motorcycles, cars, and taxis zooming by on the busy streets each night and wake up to a similar tune. My host mom always greets me with a comforting smile, even when I anxiously struggle to piece together the right Spanish words. She's patient and kind and makes me feel like I'm not an outsider in her country. While I feel out of place at times, I know that smiles and laughter have no borders and we are here with open hearts and good intentions.

All the intricacies of the neighborhoods in Medellín... what can I say? Simply breathtaking and inspirational. The different neighborhoods all have their own histories and narratives, but while they're all somewhat different, there is a common thread- a boundless amount of pride for their city and their country. Paisas have a unity and cohesiveness that I never quite imagined given the negative and grim slant of the country's worldwide news coverage. They are not defined by the past violence and widespread conflict, but instead have transformed the city, little by little, incorporating publicly funded urban structures- gyms, metros, cable cars, libraries, parks, escalators, community spaces etc. to not only challenge the notion of "invisible borders," but also to reduce violence and alter the socio-cultural dynamics of the city. Paisas are passionate about their home, Medellín, and want us, even as foreigners, to experience the city through their eyes. If I had to choose one word to describe my first impressions of Medellín, it would be hope. Colombia has proven to me that dedication, persistence, and hope are some of the most powerful and pervasive change agents and I know that in the next two months I will continue to be inspired by this beautiful city and its people.

Things that I love about Colombia:
-the architecture (the buildings are so modern, unique, and cutting edge)
-TINTO (best coffee, hands down that I've ever had. How is it so rich and wonderful?)
-arepas con huevos (yumm buen provecho)
-how friendly the paisas are (always a "buenos/as," there is no such thing as a stranger here)
-La plaza en nuestro barrio at night with all the people, laughing, hanging out, and having a good time with friends y Parque Lleras
-jugo de mora y como toda la fruta es tan fresca y deliciosa
-how relaxed and peaceful paisas seem
-Colombian Spanish

Things that I'm Still Trying to Figure Out:
-How can paisas wear jeans when it's sweltering hot? 
-How many different ways can you eat an arepa?
-How does the whole numbering and street system work in the neighborhood? I'm 100% lost at all times.
-How come there isn't a Crepes y Waffles in the US?
-Colombian slang
-How much coffee am I actually allowed to bring back with me to the States?
-How is my ghostly pale skin going to survive the strong Colombian sun?
.... more to come



Julie
First and foremost I need to acknowledge my new family—thank you for being so incredibly normal. You have welcomed me in such a warm way that I already feel at home.
I can imagine it’s pretty hard to open your home to a stranger. Home is something that, for me, means familiarity and not having to think or ever feel uncomfortable.
Repeating everything you say, sharing a bathroom, having to do more laundry, cook more food, and having an extra person looming around the halls are not things any ordinary family would do.
So I just have to say:
Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you. I mean it each and every time I say it and I can’t say it enough.

I don’t have the right words to express how I feel about everything I have seen of Medellín so far. Everything that this city has accomplished with infrastructure, community, and mobility have impacted me in a strangely powerful way. I’m impressed, humbled, and moved, but most of all frustrated because I can’t figure out where these feelings are coming from.
Medellín has transformed in an unbelievable way in the past 15 or so years, and over the past couple of days I have realized that this transformation is entirely due to dedicated Paisas.
Paisas are people born and bred here. And they rock. They’ve also created and run extremely innovative programs and public spaces because they love their city and they want to see it flourish. They fight for the rights of their fellow Paisas with as much efficiency as the government will allow.
Realistically, I never thought I was going to change the world, but I expected that the community organizations here would need our help. And I’m quickly learning that I’m wrong. What they need is recognition because what they do is awesome. I don’t mean that in a “that club was awesome” kind of way. I mean to say that it’s awe-some. As in I’m in awe of what they do.
Emotions are getting the best of me as I write and read this and I’m not exactly sure why. I feel so lucky to be able to have this experience but there is something else looming within me that I don’t have a word for.
Scared is what I am.
Scared that I won’t be able to do what I’ve realized I want to do.
I feel an urge to call every newspaper and TV station in the world and force them to report about everything I have seen—the graffiti artists, the Metrocable, the stadium that air conditions itself, my homestay mom’s arepa con queso, everything.
On the other hand, I know this won’t happen. And I know that my own experience will be invaluable and I will do my tiny part in spreading knowledge of how much this city has to offer and the inspiration I find here. But will that be enough?
No.
Sadly, I can’t change the minds of entire populations of people with my words and my images, but I’m glad my first impressions have been strong enough to make me want to try.  



Un mensaje de la madre de huésped de Julie

BITÁCORA
Junio 19 al 24
Esta ha sido una semana de expectativa tanto para nuestra familia como para Julie, romper el hielo no es fácil, es empezar a descubrir en nuestro huésped sus preferencias, gustos, rutinas y  cantidades en la alimentación, buscar diferentes maneras para que lentamente se apropie de todos los espacios de la casa y no pase mucho tiempo encerrada en su cuarto y lograr así que pueda sentirse verdaderamente en familia.
Julie es una niña tierna, comunicativa y de fácil adaptabilidad, nos sentimos orgullosos de tenerla en nuestra casa, es como si de repente la vida nos hubiese regalado una hija más.
FAMILIA PINEDA ORTIZ

Carrie
I simply cannot look past the fact that Medellín lurked with danger only decades before. While here, I am limited to just a 3-block radius where I can walk alone. I always feel like someone is following me. I am scared that someone may rob me in a crowded area, rip me off when I try to buy something, or kidnap me in a taxi. I am scared because I know it has happened before, and it could easily happen to me. I also cannot ignore that children play where dead bodies used to lie.

And yet I am incredibly grateful that my host family has opened their home to a stranger and treated me like family. I am thankful that my compañeros treat me like a close friend they have known for years. I am appreciative that I have a roof over my head at night, unlike the metal tins and rocks sheltering the poorer areas. Most unexpectedly, I am incredibly thankful that I have cold water for my shower. Because at least that means I have access to water.

The unfortunate reality is that people treat Medellín as a dichotomy: there is “the good” and there is “the bad”. The union of how “the bad” has created “the good” is what goes unnoticed. The city is fighting for a better future because of past violence. The youth has begun a cultural movement to express their frustrations of and hopes for the city. The government has built an escalator in one of the poorest slums so that people have access to the resources and work they need to survive. People have built playgrounds where stray bullets used to kill children. Individuals have dedicated their lives to improving the life of every citizen, and yet others ignore such efforts completely. My hope with this summer is that I will appreciate and understand Medellín for “the good” and “the bad”, not just one side of the story. 



Cesar
My initial impression of the city was one of familiarity. After all, both of my parents were born and raised in Medellin and I had been to the city more than a dozen times before this trip. Indeed, I had always viewed myself as “paisa”. Then came the stares; wherever my group went we were viewed with curiosity and a hint of resentment. I was instantly labeled an outsider, a “gringo”. But I wasn’t a “gringo”, at least not one in the typical sense, and I clearly wasn’t “paisa”. That realization made me sad, and then it made me angry, and finally sad again. I write to you today in a state of limbo, trying to make sense of both my “paisa” roots and my “gringo” upbringing. For me, this experience is all about perspective. I’ve come to show the world that there is more to Medellin than cocaine and plastic surgery; the city and its inhabitants are human beings worthy of respect. Yet I’ve also come to show Medellin that there is more to Americans than baseball and SUVs; they too can be compassionate and respectful. Just as we are trying to change the way the world views Colombians, we should also try to change the way Colombians view Americans.


Albert
Medellín is so much more beautiful than I could have ever imagined, but I had not realized how emotional this trip would be.  The emotion began with my parents crying at the airport.  About 20 years ago, they made the trip to Bogota, Colombia to adopt me.  It definitely struck some emotional chords in my family and me knowing that I would be able to experience part of the country where I was born.      

I prepared myself for a feeling of loneliness and anxiety upon arriving into someone’s house.  After a long day of travel to Colombia, I expected to walk into a house feeling like an intrusive outsider.  To my surprise, I felt like part of the family.  It was the most incredible feeling.  My host mother gave me a detailed tour of my new hogar.  She has her own paintings everywhere and they are beautiful. The anxiety from the strange encounter that I had expected was replaced with a feeling of belonging and comfort.

The sights are simply beyond words. This first week in Medellín reminded me how massive the world is. Throughout a given day, there’s an entire world of people that never cross our minds. In Medellín, it’s a different way of life—time seems a bit slower, the culture seems richer, the people have an indefinable pride for their city and everyone greets each other with warm smiles and greetings. 

I thought I prepared for all I would experience. However, I could not help but think of myself as inadequate—something that I did not anticipate.  How can I make a positive impact anywhere in the world?  I did not grow up here, or experience the things they have. Yes, by blood, I am Colombian, but I don’t feel that I’ll ever be able to identify as one.  I had always felt that if I sought out the culture, I could one day make up for my lack of Colombian culture.  Maybe I could, but part of me continues to question, what life would be like had I grown up here?




Alexa
My First Impressions of Medellín, Colombia...

May 5, 2012

PROGRAMA COMPAÑERO/A 2012

Duke Engage - USA Medellin mi hogar / my home Medellin Junio 15 a Agosto 15
visite nuestro blog en: http://dukeengageinmedellin.blogspot.com/

Directores:
Dra. Tamera Marko
Jota Samper

Que es el programa compañero/a ?

Que es el programa compañero/a ? Jota Samper
En su quinto año consecutivo el objetivo del proyecto es socializar estudiantes
colombianos con los estudiantes de los Estados Unidos que
forman parte del programa DukeEngage Medellín. Un compañero es
un huésped de la ciudad y amigo de aventuras. Un compañero dedica
parte de su tiempo libre ayudando a los estudiantes de la universidad
de Duke en:
• Sus investigaciones y proyectos de entrevistas y video en Medellín.
• Asistir voluntariamente a algunos de los eventos programados como
visitas y viajes.
• Facilitar en la traducción de situaciones culturales (un tinto es un café).
Nuestro objetivo es que los estudiantes de Duke University tengan un
compañero en quien confiar en las horas en las cuales no estarán
desarrollando actividades académicas y alguien que los introducirá en
las sutilezas de la cultura colombiana y de la ciudad de Medellín. Y que
los estudiantes en Medellín aprendan de otras culturas y establezcan
lasos de amistad que se extenderán más allá del alcance específico de
este proyecto.

Requisitos para ser parte del programa compañero/a
• Ser estudiante matriculado en una universidad
en Medellín
• Estar disponibles por teléfono y correo
electrónico
• Permanecer la mayor parte del tiempo
en la Ciudad entre el 15 de junio y el 15 de
agosto del 2012
Fecha límite para aplicar Mayo 30/2012
Envía un email a la siguiente dirección
demostrando tu interés en participar en el
proyecto a: xsilvalex@hotmail.com

Alexander Silva Carmona
Coordinador

Apr 25, 2012

Q1 How did your DE Colombia experience change you? Your life? One way you see the world?






Jessica David


·         I would say that my DukeEngage experience has changed the way I see the world. My view isn’t as limited as it used to be. Nigerian author, Chimamanda Adichie once said, “The single story creates stereotypes, and the problem with stereotypes is not that they are untrue, but that they are incomplete. They make one story become the only story.” I can happily state that I have gained another view of the story of Medellín. Participating in this experience allowed me the opportunity to immerse myself in a new culture and to engage with natives. I was able to listen to the personal stories of displaced families and witness their transformation process firsthand. I became part of the transforming city, as did my fellow DukeEngage participants, because our work is now a part of history.

There is one instance that I will never forget. It wasn’t until last night that I realized it had an impact on Jota as much it had on me. We were visiting a Juvenile Addiction Facility in Medellín. I believe the ages of the children spanned from as young as 7 to as old as 18. Many of these children had left their homes and were living on the streets and had been involved in the trafficking and consumption of illicit drugs. As we entered one of the large rooms, the children were practicing drills as their chaperon shouted commands. When the children were told that they could greet us, they rushed to examine the faces of the Americans that had occupied their space. One young girl with a complexion identical to my own came up to me. She clapped her hands and jumped up and down. She was so amazed that I, an American, looked like her. Her gestures and expressions said, “You look just like me.” I think that moment opened her eyes. She no longer viewed Americans as white, blonde hair and blue-eyed individuals. I had added to her American story just by being present. For me, that was one of the greatest experiences I could have ever been a part of.


Gabriela Arredondo-Santisteban


My DE Colombia experience changed me the moment I left the comforts of my home. Never had I spent that much time away from my house, my friends, and especially my family. Seeing my mom cry as I went through security in the airport made me realize how much I depend on my family being close by whenever I need them. I was born and raised in Durham and at Duke I make an effort to see my parents often and go home for the occasional dinner. Going to Colombia gave me a chance to be challenged away from the security of home. Instead of feeling scared, I felt empowered. I never felt endangered or even homesick while in Colombia. Medellín felt like a city I was always meant to be in. What impacted me the most were the people and their generosity. From the compañeros to the families I interviewed, they all welcomed me into their lives with the true intent of getting to know me. Before Medellín I kept myself guarded and often felt tentative going into new situations. Medellín taught me how to embrace new challenges and be my true self. All these people changed my world, and in return I hope I left them with a little piece of the real me.

 Cassidy Fleck


The work I did in Colombia, the people I met along with the social and economic conditions I witnessed were enough to make a lasting impression in so many facets of my life. I could choose to cite any of eight week’s worth of experiences, but the one that is most pertinent to me now is how my relationship with my companeros and with their work exposed me to art in a way I had never been before. I connected with some of my companeros better than I have connected with many students at Duke. They were artists, passionate and brilliant. Listening to them describe their work and the way they applied their art to social issues gave me a completely different perspective on artists and the potential art has as an outlet for social change. I remember skyping Lucho until dawn one morning, grilling him about his final project with Leidy. They were designing public housing, but the design emphasized privacy as well as efficiency, giving its residents the dignity they deserved.
I never considered myself an artist, calling myself one always felt pretentious. My parents see art as a commodity, not a way of living, and it has taken me most of my undergraduate career to embrace my identity as an artist. I never thought of myself this way until I got to spend eight weeks with the companeros.
            I’ve always loved writing, but I saw my ability to write more as a parlor trick or a resume skill to be listed and then passed over. But when I got back from Colombia, I enrolled in two creative writing classes and began to slowly take myself more seriously. This put me at odds with my parents. My friends, too, thought I was playing. They saw my major as a cop-out to more hard-core areas of study and this attitude carries over to the university itself. Duke does not have a very rich arts community, nor does it encourage its students to pursue arts-related careers. But I kept writing. I wrote a creative thesis that I hope to publish this summer. I work-shopped with authors when they came to campus. I threw myself into the community at the Center for Documentary Studies. I guess you could say that Colombia was the catalyst for this change. 

Gideon Rosenthal

Although the work we did was extremely important, it is not something to think about on a consistent basis. However, after leaving Medellin and travelling to London to study abroad, I began to truly appreciate the notion of hospitality. In fact, both countries share similar social etiquettes when hosting a guest. It something that as a country, I think American society truly lacks. Arriving in someone’s impoverished home in Moravia or a lavish one in Chelsea, you are immediately greeted with either a cup of tea or a tinto. Its requires very little of the host, but undoubtedly means a great deal for the visitor. But this extends far beyond coffee. It reflects the sentiment inherent in both of these societies. Hopefully its something we could try to bring to the States by offering visitors some sort of caffeinated beverage as soon as they walk in the door.

Additionally, Duke Engage taught me a lot about the notion of mobility. As Americans, we have the ability to travel anywhere we want. Never are we restricted access to a foreign country because of our nationality. However, this is simply not the case with citizens of other countries. For instance, Colombians have an extremely difficult time acquiring visas to visit other countries. Mobility it something we take for granted, and is something that not everyone in the world is able to enjoy. 
 
Natalie Robles 

Our trip to Medellín was much more than an “experience.” It was a shift in my lifestyle. I had originally thought that at some point in my Duke career that I’d do DukeEngage. Friends of friends had told me that it was extremely competitive. But after applying for both DukeEngage Colombia and Duke in NY, my life took a really, sharp turn. I was about to travel the world on my own for the first time. It’s all that I could have ever hoped for, but it also seemed overwhelmingly surreal. People traveled the world all of the time. After the trip is over with, their lives move on. Right? Of course, it’ll affect them. But it won’t determine how they act the rest of their life. People, especially Duke students, knew how to take on these kind of experiences. It was a part of a Duke students’ life, right? A part of their skills set, right?
Well, after the trip was said and done, and I’d spent two months immersed in the Colombian culture, a culture that had been somewhat hazy to me for years, I felt both enlightened and assured of some things, and even hazier about other things. I knew that I was now interested in doing something with documentary studies further down the line. I also knew that I wanted to return to Colombia some day, and hopefully someday soon.
But I’d also come to Colombia not only on a Duke program, but without my actual Colombian family. I’d met my Colombian cousins while I was there, but it wasn’t the same. I’d connected so much with my Colombian host family, but even so, this process of getting to know my Colombian side and culture felt odd. It wasn’t the “traditional” way to do it, and for that reason, it felt somehow unsatisfying. I didn’t know how to interpret anything. I wanted to have my family there with me, because it was hard to talk to anyone about it. I felt as though my host family didn’t understand the frustration I’d experienced living such a split, bi-cultural life; they only saw me as a estadounidense. My peers didn’t seem to understand how I felt as a very confused individual in the middle of what was supposedly a country that was a part of my identity, so I felt uncomfortable to reach out to them. And when I finally came back home and told my family about my time in Colombia, they were emotionally unable to understand what it was I did. Either they’d cry and look to me, finally understanding what I’d been telling them I was doing all along. But they also couldn’t fathom the experience I’d just had. It was too personal, too raw, too hard to process even when I was there.
Of course, there was my Colombian father, who hadn’t been in the picture for several years. That is, until I landed in Medellín. I had a feeling he was thinking, “Wait, this is my country; my home. I need to guide her.” So we began talking, and he would recommend places I should go and see…but it was never a form of complete connection. Between me and him. Between me and my mom’s family. My host family. My friends in Colombia. I still feel like I’m caught in a dream-like haze, and wonder, “Did that actually happen?” I yearn to go back so I can connect again with those people, that food, those buildings, that smell, that feeling. Two months was not long enough, and now I find myself even more confused about my identity. As my host mom once said, “Eres colombamericana.” Now, I don’t feel like I’m anything.